I want to show you how to take magnificent photos of the Milky Way and night photography in general.
Each chapter deals with an important component of night and star photography.
As in other areas of photography, the range of possibilities is very wide. It ranges from deep-sky photography to ultra-wide-angle shots.
Deep-sky photos are taken with very wide focal lengths or telescopes. The focus here is on star formations, planets or nebulae. In contrast, very wide-angle lenses are used for landscape photos of the starry sky. In these shots, you can see the landscape and, for example, the arc of the Milky Way.
Whatever you choose, a dark night sky free from light pollution is always essential.
Nowadays, there is a wide range of cameras that can be used for astrophotography. You can find an overview HERE.
In addition to the camera, a lens is of course also necessary. The selection of lenses is very extensive for almost all manufacturers. In my opinion, Sony has a fantastic lens in its range with the Sony Alpha 14mm GM 1.8. You can find the test HERE.
A particularly stable tripod is used for the long exposure times. If you are not prepared to walk long distances, you can confidently choose a heavy version. For users who pay attention to weight, I recommend the Rollei Rock Solid Gamma Mark II.
For all ambitious astrophotographers, an astrotracker is a must in the photo backpack. The astro tracker allows you to take exposures of well over 30 seconds with stars that are still pinpoints. The principle is that the tracker moves your camera along with the rotation of the earth.
Particularly good results paired with low weight can be achieved when using focal lengths up to 200mm with the MSM Astrotracker. HERE you can find my test of this tracker.
In the Astrotracker tutorial below I explain the basics.
Headlamps are particularly useful for astrophotography. You have your hands free and can adjust the settings on the camera.
A red light mode can be helpful as it keeps your eyesight adapted to the darkness
Of course, lamps don’t just have to be used for seeing, but can also be used creatively in your photos. For example, LED lamps for light paintings or a torch for a special atmosphere. You can also use light to illuminate people or buildings . This can be particularly helpful when photographing people if someone can’t stand still for 20 seconds.
My recommendation for a headlamp is the Petzl Actik Core.
Light pollution is the astrophotographer’s greatest enemy.
Darkness is essential to capture as complete a starry sky as possible. Urban lighting can significantly attenuate the night sky and show unattractive colors.
When researching or checking whether a photo spot is suitable for astrophotography, it is worth taking a look at the map. Is the spot in or near a city? Are there other direct light sources? E.g. from wind turbines?
You can use the Light Pollution Map: https://www.lightpollutionmap.info to measure light pollution from various sources. The “World Atlas 2015” map shows suitable locations in blue. Another feature of Light Pollution Map is the display of cloud cover.
Unfortunately, we now not only have light pollution from below, but also from above: more and more satellites.
Checking the weather is essential before you set off. A cloudy sky and you can safely stay at home.
In addition to the degree of cloud cover, the height of the clouds is also important in the mountains. Visibility may already be different at the summit. Wind is also an aspect to consider, as it can quickly disperse clouds, but can also blow them in.
A very comprehensive weather report is provided by Windy: https://www.windy.com.
The weather report sometimes also contains information on the appearance of auroras above the polar circle.
There are now many sources for photo spots, especially for astrophotography. However, individual research is often much more fun.
After researching dark locations, you can use Fatmap https://fatmap.com/ to explore the area.
Fatmap offers very extensive map material and 3D views. You can start exploring in your living room.
Once the photo spot has been determined, it is a good idea to note the time of astronomical darkness. Astronomical darkness represents the darkest period of the night.
For the individual composition of the stars with or without a landscape, the alignment of the Milky Way or the targeted constellations is important. This can be done at home with the Photopills apphttps://www.photopills.com/. Photopills also contains many practical features, such as calculating the exposure time based on the camera and focal length used.
My favorite app for checking the constellations and position of the Milky Way directly at the photo spot is Sky Guide https://apps.apple.com/de/app/sky-guide/id576588894.
The camera’s exposure time is set manually and not automatically. The exposure time is limited by the rotation of the earth. So if you don’t like elongated stars, you should take this into account. Depending on the focal length used, a different exposure time should be selected.
When using 20mm, you would have to set 15 seconds according to this formula (300 / 20 = 15). For point-like stars without any trails, shorter exposures are needed.
When using an astro tracker , the exposure time depends on the alignment accuracy. Large astrotrackers that have been precisely aligned with the North Star can expose for several minutes. Smaller models, which are set using a laser pointer, usually manage less exposure time.
The aperture should be as open as possible. The more open your aperture, the more light will reach your camera sensor.
There is hardly any light available at night.
The ISO value is calculated according to the amount of available light. If you only have a narrow aperture, such as F4, you will inevitably have to increase the ISO.
The higher the ISO, the more noise there is in the image. A linear relationship, so to speak. Although there are some exceptions to this with modern camera sensors. Hence my recommendation: Find out exactly at which ISO values your camera delivers good results.
The autofocus will usually not focus in the dark. And then it is not guaranteed to work reliably.
Depending on the lens, the focus adjustment is mechanical or focus by wire (motor-assisted). Most lenses have their maximum focus just before the infinity mark. Directly at the stop at the infinity symbol, the stars are often out of the focal plane again.
It is best to open your aperture to the maximum, turn up the ISO and enlarge your display. Now find the brightest star and turn the focus ring until the star is at its smallest. This is the optimum setting. Be sure to take a test image and zoom in. If the stars are blurred, the focus was incorrectly selected or the exposure may have been too long.
The exposure should not be triggered directly at the camera. This could result in camera shake.
The camera should be set to self-timer 2-5s or a remote control should be connected via cable or radio.
Also, don’t forget to switch off your image stabilizer. When operating your camera on a tripod, this can lead to blurring.
